Retracing tatreez: The power of storytelling through Palestinian embroidery
Palestinian weaving is a practice that has been carried on for generations with each design holding stories of resistance woven tightly together.
The Textile Museum of Canada opened its Retracing Tatreez: Palestinian Thobes through the 20th Century exhibit on Thursday, Sept. 24. The exhibit holds many different examples of tatreez, a form of Palestinian embroidery. Tatreez is a powerful storytelling tool that Palestinians have used to represent themselves through a history of oppression and resistance.
At the Retracing Tatreez exhibit, every piece of tatreez holds so much depth. Not only is the explosion of colours and diversity of designs fascinating, but every piece is its own being, telling the viewer its history and experience. Despite the old age of most pieces, the work is still clear and vibrant.
“I’m here to support Palestinian makers and to celebrate the culture at a time where it’s really necessary and important to do so,” said Rah Eleh, who was visiting the exhibit.
Retracing Tatreez allows Palestinian artists to be seen, and also helps ensure Palestinian culture and practices are represented in the media and within every field.
Traditionally, tatreez is embroidery that is done on thobes, a loose ankle-length, full sleeve robe popular in the Arab world. Historically, silk floss was used in tatreez. Colours would vary from region to region, but most of them were inspired by hues you would find amidst nature. Different shades of red were used across all regions. In Gaza specifically, magenta was used a lot in tatreez. Thobes were made of linen and often had silk panels. Fancier fabrics such as silk velvets and atlas silks were sourced from Syria. Today, Dollfus-Mieg et Compagine threads, more typically known as DMC threads, are used.
Tatreez is traditionally done by Palestinian women, usually taking inspiration from the world around them and the events taking place in their lives. The embroidery often features flowers, birds and linear patterns. When the Palestinian flag was banned in 1967, tatreez was used as a medium for resistance. Despite this, Palestinian women revolted by sewing the flag onto their thobes.
Tatreez is passed down from mother to daughter. Once a daughter can hold a thread, she begins to sew tatreez.
“It’s a craft tradition, but it's also a family tradition,” said event curator Nina Rafique.
Women sit together, talk, eat and sew. When pieces need to be done for a timeline, they come together and work on one piece at the same time. Tatreez is more than just a craft; it builds community.
After continuous displacement, many Palestinians began to lose the tradition. This was the case for Rafique. Her grandmother and mother did not know how to sew tatreez. So, Rafique learned through online research, joined groups and fell in love with it.
This is the case for many Palestinians. Even if the art was lost through generations, they found it again and won’t let it be forgotten. Tatreez holds the stories of hundreds of thousands of Palestinians. Some stories we may never get to hear, but that is why the tradition must carry on, to ensure that its significance and history are never forgotten.
Next time you see a piece of tatreez, ponder and remember: it's not just a thobe with pretty designs; it’s someone’s, or many someone’s, story. Rafique’s work reflects centuries of women sewing their lives and identities into their clothing, so everyone can see their stories. It is more than just an exhibit; it is a form of education.
Though we cannot speak to who sewed the pieces, nor will we possibly ever know the names of those who did, tatreez is a reminder of the resistance of the Palestinian people and their refusal to lose their traditions even while fighting colonialism and facing ethnic cleansing. Tatreez is more than embroidery; it is a mark of survival, even after enduring so much hardship.
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